If you find that you have run out of space to store all your clothing, a wardrobe closet will provide extra storage. It will also come in handy for storing out-of-season clothes and clothes that require hanging--as well as other odds and ends you accumulate--if your home lacks adequate closet space, or lacks closets altogether. A wardrobe closet solves all these issues, and you can build one yourself with basic woodworking skills.
Cutting the Pieces
Measure and cut two 21-inch by 63-inch pieces from the ¾-inch plywood. These will be your two side pieces. Use the router to round the edges to a 3/8-inch width.
Cut out the foot areas on both side pieces. Measure 2 ½ inches in from the outside edges and 2 1/2 inches up from the bottom edge. Cut out the area between your marks. You can choose to arch your cut or leave it straight. You'll have two feet per side piece when finished.
Measure and cut one 18 ¾-inch by 31 ¼-inch piece from one piece of ¾-inch plywood to form the front base piece. Turn the piece so that the 18 ¾-inch side is the height and the 31 ¼-inch side is the width.
Cut the foot area on the front base similar as the side pieces, but measure 5 inches in from the side edges and 2 ½ inches up from the bottom edge. You should have 21 ¼ inches in between the two feet when you are finished.
Measure and cut one 4 ¾-inch by 31 ¼-inch piece from the ¾-inch plywood to form the top rail.
Measure and cut one 2-inch by 39 ½-inch piece from the ¾-inch plywood for the center post that will separate the doors.
Measure and cut one 3 ½-inch by 46-inch piece from the ¾-inch plywood. This is the support for the center post. Attach the support to the center post, centered and flat side to flat side, using wood glue and 1 ½-inch screws--two on top, two on bottom.
Measure and cut two 14 5/16-inch by 39 1/8-inch pieces from the 3/4-inch plywood. These will be the doors.
Measure and cut two 1 ¼-inch by 57 ½-inch pieces from the ¾-inch boards, for the side braces.
Measure and cut one 30 ½-inch by 21-inch piece from the ¾-inch plywood, which is the top panel. Measure and cut one 28 5/8-inch by 21-inch piece from the 3/4-inch plywood, which is the bottom panel.
Measure and cut one 30 ¾-inch by 62 ½-inch piece from the ¼-inch plywood to make the back panel for the wardrobe closet.
Measure and cut two 4 ½-inch by 21-inch pieces from the ¾-inch boards. Trace the feet sections of the two side pieces. Cut out this section so that it looks like the feet at the bottom of the sections. These are side braces; glue one brace, lined up, to each of the side sections. Attach screws if desired.
Measure and cut two 4 ½-inch by 29 ¾-inch pieces from the ¾-inch boards, which will be the front and back braces. Trace and cut these two sections as you did with the side pieces. Attach the front support brace only.
Measure and cut two 39 ½-inch pieces and two 14 5/16-inch pieces from the door molding. One end of each piece will need a 45-degree-angle miter cut.
Attach the two side pieces to the front base piece. Line up the feet at the bottom of the side pieces with the inside of the feet on the front base, and add glue along the side pieces. Make sure the edges of the side pieces and the front base are flush with each other and then add screws, evenly spaced, through the front base and into the side pieces.
Attach the bottom panel and the bottom support brace. Add glue around the edges of the bottom panel, place it on the front support brace, and then add screws--evenly spaced--from the front base through the bottom panel. Then add screws--evenly spaced--around the side pieces into the bottom panel. Finally, glue the bottom brace into position, making sure the edges are flush with the bottom panel.
Attach the two side support pieces to the frame. Glue one side support to each side, placing the braces behind the front base piece, on the inside of the closet. Add screws at the top, bottom and middle of the braces if desired.
Place the center post on top of the front base, centered and edges flush. Clamp the post into position; do not add glue or screws.
Add glue to the bottom and sides of the top rail. Place it on top of the side pieces and the center post. Add screws, evenly placed, along the side pieces. Ensure the post is centered on the top rail and then glue and add screws to secure the post to the top rail and front base. When finished, you will have two door openings.
Attach the two 14 5/16-inch pieces to the top sections of the door openings using glue and the screws. Put one screw on each end, about 1 to 2 inches in from the corners. Ensure the molding edges are flush with the opening edges and the angled end is facing the center post.
Attach the two 39 1/2-inch door molding pieces to the sides of the door openings, along the center post. The angled ends go against the angles of the top door molding, and the edges should all be flush. Secure with glue and screws.
Turn the closet face down and attach the back panel, centered. Use glue and screws; attach two screws per corner and then evenly spaced around the perimeter. Make sure your screws are going through the back panel and into the frame pieces. Stand the closet upright when finished.
Attach the closet rod and side brackets following the manufacturer's instructions for installation.
Apply wood putty, following the instructions on the container, to the screw holes and sand smooth. Add stain or paint as desired.
Attach the door hinges, magnetic door clips and knobs/pulls following the packaging instructions.